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The foundation of Dizzy's offense and defense revolves around the usage of her projectile summons. After scoring a knockdown, Dizzy can utilize her summons for offensive rushdown (particularly the 214 series) to setup high/low mixups, crossups, and tick-throw setups, which can often lead back into a knockdown and allow for Dizzy to keep the momentum in her favor. On defense, Dizzy can utilize her summons, often in multiple combinations, for zoning purposes to control the screen and limit her opponent's movement range or to even cover her approach for rushdown. Dizzy also has a double airdash for high mobility options in either rushdown or runaway scenarios.
Dizzy does have a few weaknesses: a low defense modifier which results in her receiving more damage than usual, no viable reversal moves except for her 632146P Overdrive, and a huge hitbox which makes it easier for her to get hit and get comboed. If Dizzy is pressured in the corner by an opponent, you are likely to remain there blocking for quite some time, unless you try to take a risk to escape (FD jump, counterattack) or utilize DAA or Burst, when applicable. Also, for Dizzy to be able to use her projectile summon attacks, she needs to be well outside her opponent's effective attack range, which usually means she needs to be anywhere from beyond midscreen to fullscreen in order to summon most anything safely if her opponent isn't already knocked down.
To play Dizzy effectively, you need to capitalize on her strengths in order to cover and make up for her weaknesses.
Compared to the rest of the cast, Dizzy has sub par normals, and is generally beaten by most opponents. On the other hand, once she has summons out, she is at a distinct advantage. Thus, the mind games in the neutral game will mostly be about Dizzy getting her summons out. To help her from being rushed down completely, she has ice spike and sometimes 5k and f.S against ground/IAD rushdown and 2s against jump-ins. Usually, the fear of being smacked by an ice spike (especially if you have tension to FRC, which makes it completely safe, and sometimes even allows you to punish their attempt to punish) is what will keep the opponent hesitating from rushing you down, and will allow you at times to trick them with a dry summon. Against certain opponents, even the odd unexpected rushdown (like, IAD back, airdash forward j.P/j.2s) can work out if they are only expecting the Dizzy player to play keepaway.
Tips & Techniques
236H FRC is one of the most difficult FRCs to execute in GG and it is important for you to know/learn it if you wish to be proficient in using Dizzy.
It has the following uses:
- Transporting an opponent into the corner.
- Giving you more time to setup for okizeme.
- Making a blocked/whiffed 236H safe on recovery.
- A follow-up opportunity to continue a combo and deal extra damage, especially if it has the potential to finish off an opponent.
It is recommended that you learn the FRC point through muscle memory because relying on audio/visual cues alone means that you can't concentrate on more important aspects of the game during the match.
In addition to a stand-alone 236H FRC, you should also practice the following:
- 2H > 236H FRC
- 5H > 236H FRC
- f.S > 236H FRC
- 5K > 236H FRC
- 2D > 236H FRC
The first three (2H, 5H, f.S) are the most commonly used examples after a standard gatling combo that ends with 236H.
The fourth one (5K) is often used when you hit-confirm it as a long-range poke and are too far away to gatling to f.S or 5H and instead go straight to 236H.
Another technique that is associated with the use of 236H FRC is the ability to buffer a 'dash motion' which allows you to follow-up with a movement option after the FRC for either a combo opportunity or better positioning for okizeme. A common practice after the 236H FRC is to input the forward direction at the same moment as you are inputting the 3 attack buttons for the FRC. By doing this, it makes dashing forward after the 236H FRC a lot easier since the first directional input is already achieved and all you need to do is return to neutral and input the forward direction again to be able to dash.
It looks something like this:
- Ground Dash version
- ... 236H > 6+FRC > 56
- IAD version
- ... 236H > 9+FRC > 56
Dizzy's taunt has a special property where it has a hitbox on Necro's elbow, which is unblockable. Unfortunately, this hitbox is crouchable by ALL characters, and therefore requires specific setups to actually hit. 7 characters have a unique quirk where some of their first in-between frames when you start to crouch is almost as tall as their standing hurtbox, and can therefore be hit by the meaty taunt.
The 7 characters are as follows:
Justice, I-no, Slayer, Axl, Anji, Potemkin, and Dizzy herself.
Even more unfortunately though, this setup can be avoided by crouch FDing as it'll instantly go into crouching, so only use it if you think they don't know the counterplay.
Here are the common setups into taunt unblockable. The letters refer to the necessary voice set to hit it. The timing changes slightly with each voice set. Please note that "Universal" means the previously mentioned 7 characters, and not the entire cast.
Imperial Ray > Meaty Taunt = Universal
Throw > Meaty Taunt = BC: PO/IN/SL/AN/DI, B: JU/AX
5H > Ice Spike FRC > Dash Taunt = All: AN/SL/PO/IN/DI, BC: JU/AX
2H > Ice Spike FRC > Dash Taunt = Universal
2H FRC > Dash Taunt = Universal (usually worse than 2H icicle FRC, however in some cases it can work midscreen)
2D > Ice Spike FRC > Dash Taunt = All: DI/IN/PO/SL/AN/AX, BC: JU
Air Hit f.S > Ice Spike FRC > Dash Taunt = Universal
CH Gold Burst = Universal
IAD j.2S > AD j.2S
IAD j.2S > AD j.2S is an attack string that Dizzy utilizes as the lead-in to the 'High' in her High/Low Mixup for okizeme.
To achieve this, you must do the first j.2S as early as possible in the IAD, which will give you enough time to recover from the move and allow you to follow-up with another AD before you land.
Courtesy of The Dizzy Knowledge Bible
General MU Notes
Hitting Dizzy fish acts the same as hitting a character, meaning you can gatling off of the hit. This can catch the Dizzy unawares. However, it can also be a disadvantage, as you are now locked in hitstop while Dizzy isn't, allowing her to punish you. Your goal should be to use quick and low level moves to kill fish with less of a commitment. Easier said than done, of course, as the Dizzy will likely still be in range to stuff your approach or punish you for overextending.
A safer way to approach Dizzy is from the air. Dizzy has a very hard time converting random air hits into KDs outside of a few specific starters, but she will usually be able to get a summon out. Your goal should be to stall until fish is on cooldown, and use that chance to approach more confidently. She cannot force mixup situations if you stay airborne. Remember, ALL of her summons are air blockable, and blocking them restores air options.
Replay takeover will be extremely useful in learning how Dizzy's setups works, and experimenting with options, such as jumping or looking for gaps, as well as finding out which setups are DP safe and not. Effective utilization of replay takeover is just a good habit in general.
Bursting vs Dizzy
Bursting wrong vs Dizzy is a trap many new or unaware players fall into often. It can be difficult, but hopefully this makes you aware of the options you have. First, contrary to popular belief, fish does NOT tank burst. As long as Dizzy is in the radius, she will get hit over any summon. If she is out of the radius however, the burst will hit and destroy fish. The general rule to bursting Dizzy is to almost never burst the first fish command. You want to burst right before the second command, in a way that hits Dizzy and lets you go through the fish command with your invulernability frames. I'd advise using replay takeover or training mode to practice this. Another decent burst spot is 5H/2H. These are normals with long recovery and not jump cancellable, making them safer burst points, also denying her a knockdown. Sometimes, you'll burst in a way where you invuln through an ice spike, and depending on the character, you can land and punish her. This is a niche situation, however.
IBing Dizzy is a good way to build meter and make her frametrap/reset options more unsafe. Dizzy likes ending strings in high level normals (5H/2H) and cancelling into a special/2D. If she does the latter, IBing mostly just nets you meter as she jumps away. If she cancels into a special, your IB gives you more frames to work with to try and stuff whatever she tries to do, or run away. For example, stuffing a refish attempt is easier if you IB the 5H beforehand. It also keeps her closer, which makes her attempts even more unsafe. IBing in the air is very good too. There's less immediate practical effects besides meter, as normal blocking also restores air options. However, it still lets you act earlier, and this can make a difference.
Dealing with Non Fish Summons
Wheel/Scythe. A low attack level projectile with 2 arcs. K version appears in front of Dizzy, goes immediatelly upward and then descends. Useful for covering air approaches. The S version also appears in front of Dizzy, descends slightly, and then ascends for the rest of the duration. More useful for covering immediate ground approaches. The projectile is guaranteed on frame 18 and doesn't go away on hit, but Dizzy is in recovery for slightly longer than that. In a blockstring, it will usually come after 5H, 2H, and 2D. Counter hit state, and extends her hurtbox slightly. Beware of the frc if you attempt to approach.
The most universal and safe way (albeit less rewarding) to deal with both wheels in the corner (even when frc'd) is jumping and blocking (preferably ib) the projectile. This will restore your air options and allow you to attempt to escape. At midscreen, you can disengage more safely. If Dizzy does wheel super close, you can punish with a close and fast normal before the projectile comes out. Some characters may be able to jump over the wheel and punish with a falling normal (Sol j.H/Chipp j.D etc.).
I blocked S wheel grounded, what happens now?
S wheel will hold you in blockstun, allowing to attempt a few things, primarily summoning, dash up normal, or dash up throw. The summon is NOT gapless, so you can attempt to escape.
K Wheel Notes
K wheel isn't as simple as S wheel. Raw, it's usually just a strike throw game. However, it gets much scarier with other summons, allowing her to run a high low with AD j.2S/Land 2K. If you block it slightly above the ground, you may be able to throw her land 2K or even DP.
Knife/Spear. Homing knife that Dizzy holds and releases when she wishes with negative edge. Dizzy is in startup for 22f, and the projectile comes out in 18f. If she is hit, it will disappear. If it manages to counter hit, it has long untech time, sometimes granting a kd depending on height. The rising orb also has a hitbox, and getting hit by this can potentially lead into big damage, and even a knockdown if the Dizzy chooses to imperial ray. However, it does NOT have a hitbox while it is static being held. The knife tracks around the neck/chest area, so if you're at a good distance away and use a move that slightly lowers your hurtbox, you can dodge it completely. Startup is counter hit state.
If she can make you block the knife grounded while she's in the air, she can run a high/low. She can also frametrap/throw both before and after it hits. Has some fuzzy opportunities if she can make you block it grounded. Has some uses in resets (see refish setups), and is very common in neutral.
Normal Bubble (j.214P/K/S)
The infamous bubble. Dizzy sets a bubble with no hitbox which only pops when struck by one of her own normals or projectiles. 13f CH state startup, however Dizzy cannot act until around 20f. The bubble goes away on hit, UNLESS it is already in the process of popping. This allows it to trade extremely favorably for Dizzy. Long untech time on ch, allowing for kds at some heights. With a low altitude pop, Dizzy can kd with f.S ice spike on both normal and ch.
Dizzy uses the bubble in neutral to create and stall in the air. The pop is big, and so is the threat of the pop, allowing Dizzy to control parts of the screen even if it is not a direct threat yet. Bubble has uses in resets to resummon safely (see refish setups), though these will not usually be gapless. On offense, Dizzy can TK bubble and do an AD buttons/land low/land throw mix. The land low is usually throwable if she has no other projectiles to protect her.
Fish. Dizzy's best special move and the central piece of her gameplan. This move does it all. 5 different programmable moves, which will be covered later. Stays out on block AND on hit, and can attack opponents during their own combo. It also eats a hit, if a hitbox is overlayed over it and Dizzy at the same time. It even stays out if Dizzy gets bursted, effectively punishing it for her in many situations. This is an incredible move and also incredibly hard to deal with. First, you should learn to tell which fish is out.
Detecting Fish Based on Startup
To use this section most effectively, you should familiarize yourself with what each fish button does. Either go look at the overview page or hop into training mode.
214S/H Fish (Laser)
Laser fish, with two different heights to shoot depending on the version used. You can identify this by if the fish floats forward slightly. You cannot tell the difference between S or H fish, but S fish will be primarily used against jumping opponents, as its use is limited outside of that and combos. H fish is much more common, and it is usually a safe bet to assume it is the one being used.
214P/K Fish (Bites)
Dizzy's two bite fish. These fish have identical startup, doing a small sway downward and then foward. However, even though they have identical startup, K fish has MUCH less range than P fish, so you can tell if it is coming based on range or if the Dizzy does a microdash before summoning. P fish is used much more often in neutral scenarios than K fish due to this. Both are used often in knockdown situations.
214D Fish (Big Bite)
Dizzy's big bite fish. This is easily identifiable by the large sway motion backwards immediately after being summoned. If the fish dandy steps, it's a D fish.
Common Neutral Fish Formations
While this is not a general rule for fish formations, these are the most common and generally useful. Of course, you cannot tell even from the first fish what the second fish will be, so there is some guessing involved. Hopefully this will give you more insight into her many options. A general answer to all of Dizzy's summons is to low profile. ALL of Dizzy's fish can be low profiled, though sometimes it can be inconsistent.
214H-H (Double Laser)
Dizzy's most basic neutral formation, two lower lasers. She will mostly use this to cover space in front of her if she is confident that the opponent will not engage her summoning. As lasers will always shoot in the way Dizzy herself is facing, jumping over this fish will effectively take it out of the game, assuming she doesn't go over/under you before the second laser starts up. If you can get over it, you are in a really good spot as fish will be stuck in cooldown the entire time it's firing offscreen, as well as some time after.
One of Dizzy's most versatile options. This controls the space in front of her, and also protects her if the laser fish is jumped over. Generally, you want to jump over the intial H fish and attack Dizzy. Unless you have normals that hit behind you or low profile, or even armor, you will have to disengage with a jump cancellable normal to avoid the second command. Alternatively, you can use a fast and safe button to kill the H fish, but Dizzy can take advantage of this as well. Varying your approach is key.
An incredibly strong midrange formation, giving her amazing neutral presence. You have a few options against this, but if you're in the range where this setup is effective, you are at a big disadvantage. The safest option is to disengage and let the attacks run out of range, but this can allow Dizzy to get other summons out. Another option is to hit the fish. You can gatling off of the fish hit, and use this to gain an advantage. This is riskier, but higher reward.
A very strong defensive formation, with the large back sway followed by a laser. This setup is extremely hard to contest due to the evasive nature of D fish, and controls tons of space after due to the laser. Your best bet is to try to lame Dizzy out, or jump cancel/low profile and try to do things between commands.